Verbeiljoch

Route Character

High alpine, challenging splitboard tour from Stubaier Gletscher ski resort to Sulzenauferner glacier toe, to the Sulzenau hut, and back to the valley. Although this tour does not lead through glaciated terrain, it is only suitable for experienced splitboard alpinists. It requires experience in the construction of belays and the safe use of rope and ice axe. At the comb you have to abseil 20 meters in order to reach the underlying, extremely steep couloir. This tour requires generally safe avalanche conditions.

Starting Point & Village

Starting point: Middle station Eisgrat Gondola / Dresdner Hut Village: Mutterbergalm

Ascent & Route

From the middle station, ascent into the distinctive small chute in the direction of Wedlas Schoaßen. The slope of the chute is approx. 45°. Alternatively, you can take the route further to the left, which has a maximum steepness of 35°. At top of the small chute you reach another short, very steep ramp, before the terrain opens again to an extensive cirque. We are now in direct, southern neighbourhood to the Beiljoch, separated by the 2920m high, Nördlicher Fernaukogel. We keep to the left along the rock massif until we reach the jagged rock ridge in southwest direction at an altitude of about 2815hm.

Descent & Variants

At the latest at the rappelling point you should be sure that the snow conditions are suitable for the exposure and altitude. In unfavourable snow conditions - not only with regard to the avalanche danger - this descent can be very challenging or even impossible. From the rock ridge we rappel about 20 vertical meters into the beginning of a 45° steep couloir. Pay attention to falling rocks. For the tour partners, who already rappelled, there is not much room for free movement there. The slope remains extremely steep throughout and ends in an almost equally steep lateral moraine of the Sulzenau Glacier (we recall that moraine slopes are around 40° steep). We safely descend to the glacier lake, because every mistake can have serious consequences.  Arrived at the glacier lake we have overcome the most difficult part of the tour. We enjoy the further descent to the Sulzenau Hut. In very good snow conditions you can even ski down to the Grawa Alm, but most of the time you have to carry the splitboards on your back from the hut or the plateau below. When descending on foot, crampons are needed, as numerous parts of the hiking trail are covered with thick layers of ice. From the Grawa Alm, take the bus back to the gondola.

Refreshments & Huts

A visit of the Grawa Alm for a Kasspatzn or Kaiserschmarn is highly recommended.

Maps

Alpenvereinskarte 31/1 Stubaier Alpen Hochstubai 1 : 25 000 Topographische Karte

Photo Gallery

A selection of 7 photos from the tour:

Map and Avalanche Risk

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