Luesener Fernerkogel

Route Character

Serious, high alpine but frequently done route, on a fantastic 3000m in the Sellrain - the summit is also called the Matterhorn of Tyrol (picture 1).
Safe conditions necessary! The key section - the Plattige Wand - is to be overcome by a 40° steep traverse, but can also be bypassed (check the description)

Equipment: complete touring equipment + crampons for board  and feet

Starting Point & Village

Starting point: Alpengasthof Lüsens 1634m Village: St. Sigmund im Sellrain

Ascent & Route

From the Alpengasthof you follow the left of the two cross-country ski trails towards the end of the valley and directly to the “Wall of Huy”; o) (picture 3) - no, the steep slope is not called this way, but strangely enough it was always in my head when I walked towards it - cyclists know this classic. This steep step overcomes an impressive 1100m.

Shortly before the end of the valley, the cross-country trail turns to the right and we continue walking directly towards the “wall”. Through hollows and short upswings it goes through this wall in alternating steepness, whereby one moves rather on the right side. On the left, it is severely torn through many ditches. Most of the time you will find a track.

Shortly before you reach the upper edge, you can see a possible downhill and ascent variant on the right. In the ascent, the area of the Plattige Wand is thus bypassed, which makes sense with increasing daytime warming. However, this wide channel is quite steep. It’s best to have a closer look at the map - it’s important to note that the southernmost channel from the Rotgratferner is the right one.

We follow the original ascent, now first flat in a westerly direction into the basin between Lissener Spitze and Fernerkogel (Picture 7). At about 3000m on the right the ascent through the Plattige Wand branches off. Traversing and ascending to the right one looks for the path. After leaving this area behind, you stand above the channel which we will descend later or you can also climb up.

From here one climbs slightly up the Rotgratferner to the south ridge of the Fernerkogel. There ski depot.

Descent & Variants

Like ascent or as already mentioned, the southernmost of the gullies of Rotgratferner directly down. I went quite far east to catch the best snow. But then remember to draw back in time, as the area in the eastern part falls off into many steep ditches.

Maps

Alpenvereinskarte 31/2 Stubaier Alpen Sellrain 1 : 25 000 Topographische Karte

Photo Gallery

A selection of 10 photos from the tour:

Map and Avalanche Risk

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